Nutrition Knowledge and Weight Loss Practices in Competition Climbers
Weight matters in climbing. But how much do competitive climbers actually know about nutrition, and what are they doing to manage their weight? A study of elite UK boulderers reveals some concerning findings that coaches, athletes, and parents need to understand.
Key Findings
- Average nutrition knowledge: Moderate, with significant individual variation
- 38% of female athletes reported intentional weight loss
- 46% of male athletes reported intentional weight loss
- 76% used concerning practices to lose weight
The Study Population
50 competitive boulderers from the UK were surveyed:
- Mix of male and female athletes
- Active competitors at national level or higher
- Representative of the elite climbing community
Nutrition Knowledge Gaps
Athletes showed moderate nutrition knowledge overall, but understanding varied widely. Common gaps included:
Protein Requirements
Many athletes underestimated protein needs for climbing, which involves significant muscle damage and repair.
Carbohydrate Timing
Understanding of when and how much carbohydrate to consume around training was inconsistent.
Hydration
Knowledge about hydration needs during training sessions and competitions was limited.
Weight Loss: The Concerning Reality
Who Is Losing Weight?
- 38% of female climbers
- 46% of male climbers
This is notable because climbing already attracts lean athletes. Further weight loss in an already-lean population creates health risks.
Methods Used (76% Used Concerning Practices)
The study found climbers using methods including:
- Severe caloric restriction
- Skipping meals
- Dehydration techniques
- Extended fasting before competition
Why It Is Problematic
These practices can lead to:
- Reduced performance from low energy availability
- Increased injury risk from inadequate tissue repair
- Hormonal disruption (amenorrhea in females)
- Bone health issues from chronic energy deficiency
- Psychological harm from disordered eating patterns
The Performance Paradox
Athletes believe lighter = better climbing performance. The research suggests this relationship is more complex:
Short-Term
Acute weight loss may provide temporary strength-to-weight ratio improvements.
Long-Term
Chronic energy restriction leads to:
- Decreased power output
- Slower recovery between sessions
- Reduced training quality over time
- Increased injury rates
What Athletes Should Know
1. Weight Is Not Everything
Body composition matters more than absolute weight. Muscle is denser than fat but also generates force.
2. Performance Nutrition Over Weight Loss
Properly fueling training leads to better adaptations than training in energy deficit.
3. Recovery Requires Calories
Tissue repair, strength gains, and skill development all require adequate energy intake.
4. The 2x Injury Risk
Research shows athletes with eating disorders have double the injury risk of those without.
Recommendations for Athletes
Fuel Your Training
- Eat enough to support your training volume
- Include protein at each meal
- Do not fear carbohydrates—they fuel climbing performance
Seek Professional Help
- Work with a sports dietitian familiar with climbing
- Address any disordered eating patterns early
- Get regular health screenings
Monitor Warning Signs
- Persistent fatigue
- Frequent illness or injury
- Mood changes
- Menstrual irregularities (females)
- Decreased performance despite training
Recommendations for Coaches
Create Healthy Culture
- Do not comment on athletes body weight
- Focus on performance metrics, not appearance
- Model healthy eating behaviors
Recognize Warning Signs
- Sudden weight changes
- Food restriction or avoidance
- Excessive exercise beyond training
- Declining performance
Provide Resources
- Connect athletes with sports nutrition professionals
- Educate on performance nutrition
- Screen for eating disorders
The Bigger Picture
Climbing culture has historically emphasized leanness. As the sport becomes more professional, we need evidence-based approaches to athlete nutrition that prioritize long-term health alongside performance.
Based on: Gibson-Smith E, Storey R, Michael M and Ranchordas M (2023) Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers. Research from the Frontiers collection on Injuries, Injury Prevention and Training in Climbing