Advanced Route Climber - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for advanced route climbers (5.12b-5.13a). 3 sessions/week, 437.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for advanced route climbers (5.12b-5.13a)

High-level route-specific training with power maintenance

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 180 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 437.5 moves Fitness Score: 1004.7/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Hangboard Integration
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Progression
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Movement Quality Focus
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Winter Training Structure
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Recovery & Load Management
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Hangboard max hangs
Result: Immediate crimp strength breakthrough after 2-3 weeks
⏱️ Rapid neurological adaptation
• Climber who previously avoided crimps suddenly flashing crimpy routes
Program: Volume increase (33% more climbing time)
Result: First moonboard send after plateau
⏱️ 3 months
• V5 plateau broken by simply climbing longer sessions (2+ hours vs 1-1.5 hours)
Program: Emil's no-hang routine
Result: Cleared up chronic finger pain after 3 weeks
⏱️ Daily protocol for 3 weeks
• 99% pain reduction in long-standing finger injury

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How to structure weekly training sessions for balanced progression?**
  2. **When is finger strength actually limiting vs technique?**
  3. **How to train steep/overhang climbing weakness?**
  4. **What's the best approach to skin care and recovery?**
  5. **How to balance board climbing with injury prevention?**

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Persistent pulley injuries - High frequency across multiple users, especially A2/A4 strains from overuse
    low frequency
  • •
    V5-V6 plateau syndrome - Multiple climbers stuck at this grade range despite good strength metrics
    low frequency
  • •
    Board climbing overuse - Skin damage and finger tweaks from excessive moonboard/tension board volume
    low frequency
  • •
    Training program confusion - Uncertainty about periodization and session structure for intermediate climbers
    low frequency
  • •
    Technique regression under pressure - Losing good movement patterns when climbing at limit grades
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Emil's No-Hang Protocol
Overwhelmingly positive for injury prevention/rehab
positive
15+ mentions
Hangboard Max Hangs
Mixed results, strong for strength but injury concerns with poor progression
mixed
20+ mentions
Board Climbing (Moonboard/Tension)
Positive for training but volume management crucial
positive
25+ mentions
7:3 Repeaters
Good for endurance but questions about practical application
neutral
8+ mentions
C4HP Finger Curls
Positive for injury-prone climbers seeking alternatives to traditional hangboarding
positive
6+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Rapid neurological gains are possible: Multiple users report immediate improvements from finger training, suggesting many climbers are undertrained rather than weak
  • 💡Volume management is critical: Success stories consistently mention either increasing total volume OR better managing intensity/recovery ratios
  • 💡Board climbing is becoming dominant: Heavy emphasis on systematic training over gym route climbing for intermediate+ climbers
  • 💡Injury prevention is paramount: Users consistently prioritize staying healthy over short-term gains, suggesting tools for load monitoring would be valuable
  • 💡Grade-specific bottlenecks exist: V5-V6 appears to be a major technique/tactics barrier where pure strength stops working
  • 💡Assessment gaps are real: Multiple complaints about training programs lacking proper baseline testing, suggesting demand for comprehensive evaluation tools
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering