Beginner Route Climber - Base Training

Optimized base training program for beginner route climbers (5.9-5.10c). 2 sessions/week, 680 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
Able to climb 5.9-5.10c
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
endurance
aerobic-base
movement-economy
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Base Training program for beginner route climbers (5.9-5.10c)

Building endurance base and learning route-reading skills

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 680 moves Fitness Score: 2172.8/100

Weekly Schedule

Tuesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Friday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Building aerobic endurance foundation through high-volume, low-intensity work. Focus on movement quality and preparing the body for more intensive training.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve endurance
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Youth Climbing Training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Forearm Endurance Issues
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Elite Bouldering Performance
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Recovery Planning
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Pre-Climbing Preparation
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Challenges
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Simon Lorenzi's V17 Training
Result:
⏱️
Program: Seb Berthe & Hugo Parmentier Endurance Challenge
Result:
⏱️
Program: Multi-session project work
Result: V8-V9 send (Jizzsap Left)
📈 V8-V9
⏱️ Multiple sessions over extended period
• Climber overcame initial impossible-feeling first move through persistent technique refinement

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Training structure for youth competitors**: "What should I prioritize: volume/technique, strength, hangboarding, or comp-style practice?"
  2. **Forearm endurance problems**: "Is it normal to get pump so quickly? Could this be medical?"
  3. **Hangboard selection during injury**: "Metolius Prime Rib vs Beastmaker for recovery training?"
  4. **Pre-climbing strength building**: "What muscles should I build before starting climbing?"
  5. **Height advantages in climbing**: Debate about whether tall climbers have unfair advantages and if height classes are needed

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Finger injury concerns
    medium frequency
  • •
    Chronic forearm pump/endurance issues - Moderate frequency, high impact on performance
    low frequency
  • •
    Small hands limiting grip strength - Youth climber struggling with pinches and compression
    low frequency
  • •
    Injury recovery uncertainty - 3-month climbing hiatus, seeking productive training alternatives
    low frequency
  • •
    Lack of training structure - Advanced youth climber without coaching guidance
    low frequency
  • •
    Partner finding difficulties - Social challenges in climbing community connection
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard Training
Mixed sentiment (seeking equipment advice, no methodology discussion)
mixed
2+ mentions
Competition Training
Neutral/seeking guidance (youth competitor)
neutral
1+ mentions
Volume/Technique Work
Questioning approach (part of training priority debate)
neutral
1+ mentions
Endurance Protocols
Negative experience (chronic pump issues)
negative
1+ mentions
Kilter Board Training
Mixed sentiment (humbling but effective for technique)
mixed
15+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Youth Training Gap: High-performing young climbers lack structured training guidance despite climbing V7-V8. Opportunity for age-appropriate training programs with competition focus.
  • 💡Endurance Training Demand: Multiple users struggling with pump/endurance issues suggests need for systematic endurance training protocols, possibly with medical screening guidance.
  • 💡Equipment-Focused Recovery: Injured climbers actively seeking training tools (hangboards) during recovery, indicating demand for injury-safe training programs.
  • 💡Grade-Specific Communities: Clear divide between elite performers (V17 level) and intermediate climbers (V7-8, 5.10a), suggesting need for grade-targeted content and training approaches.
  • 💡Social Proof from Elite Performance: V17 sends and extreme endurance challenges (100 7As) generate significant engagement, indicating community values both cutting-edge performance and volume-based achievements.
  • 💡Board climbing is a major reality check: Create content addressing the gym-to-board transition with specific technique focuses
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering