Beginner Route Climber - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for beginner route climbers (5.9-5.10c). 2 sessions/week, 150 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
Able to climb 5.9-5.10c
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for beginner route climbers (5.9-5.10c)

Building endurance base and learning route-reading skills

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 150 moves Fitness Score: 1055.3/100

Weekly Schedule

Tuesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Friday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • Finger Strength Training
    2+ mentions
  • Falling Technique
    2+ mentions
  • Fear of Falling
    1+ mentions
  • Forearm Endurance Issues
    1+ mentions
  • Climbing Shoe Fit
    1+ mentions
  • Recovery & Injury Management
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Long-term project work
Result: Completed Funky Dunky 14a
⏱️ 2+ years (250+ attempts)
First of the grade for the climber
Program: Consistent climbing practice
Result: First batman hang completion
⏱️ 4 months
New boulderer showing technique progression
Program: Quality over quantity approach
Result: New grade benchmarks while climbing ~100 pitches/year
⏱️ Recent years
Experienced climber prioritizing focused sessions

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How do I overcome fear of falling in bouldering?** - Multiple posts about transition from rope climbing to bouldering
  2. **What's normal forearm pump for sport climbing?** - Concerns about quick fatigue compared to peers
  3. **How tight should climbing shoes be?** - Confusion about toe curling vs. proper fit
  4. **Should I start hangboarding as a new climber?** - V6-7 climber after 5 months questioning finger strength training
  5. **How do I remember how to tie a bowline?** - Practical knot-tying struggles for anchor situations

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • Persistent Forearm Endurance Issues
    low frequency
  • Finger/Tendon Pain
    low frequency
  • Climbing Shoe Odor
    low frequency
  • Fear Limiting Progression
    low frequency
  • Skin Management
    low frequency
  • Grade translation indoor to outdoor - High frequency, major concern for gym-only climbers
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboarding
Mixed sentiment (questioning when to start, effectiveness concerns)
mixed
3+ mentions
Volume/Technique Focus
Positive (youth climber seeking structure)
positive
2+ mentions
ARC Training/Endurance Work
Neutral (forearm endurance concerns)
neutral
1+ mentions
Campus Board Training
Positive ("for fun" recreational use)
positive
1+ mentions
Hangboarding
neutral/questioning sentiment (beginners asking if they should start)
neutral
2+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Beginner Training Guidance Gap: Strong demand for "when to start hangboarding" and structured training advice for newer climbers (V6-V8 range)
  • 💡Mental Training Underserved: Fear of falling is a major limiting factor with limited structured solutions discussed
  • 💡Injury Prevention Education Needed: Many preventable finger/tendon issues from rapid progression without proper conditioning
  • 💡Forearm Endurance Specialization: Recurring issue suggests need for sport-climbing specific endurance protocols
  • 💡Youth Climber Market: High-performing young climbers seeking structured training approaches but lacking coaching access
  • 💡Practical Skill Gaps: Basic skills like knot tying and anchor building still major pain points even for intermediate climbers
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering