Finger Rehab Return - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 165 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
3 requirements
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level)

Returning from pulley injury? Progressive loading protocol to safely rebuild finger strength and confidence

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 60 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 165 moves Fitness Score: 1305.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Thursday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Injury Recovery Protocols
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Beginner training structures
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Forearm endurance issues
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Finger pain and injury management
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Shoe fit and performance
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Recovery and skin care
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Funky Dunky 14a project completion
Result:
⏱️
Program: V17 boulder sends (Shaolin, Return of the Sleepwalker)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Board climbing + bouldering phase
Result: V13 breakthrough + linking moves on problems 4 V-grades harder
⏱️ Current training cycle
• Experienced climber using board climbing for first time

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **What training should a V7-V8 climber focus on?**
  2. **Why do my forearms pump so quickly compared to others?**
  3. **How tight should climbing shoes be?**
  4. **How do I overcome fear of falling in bouldering?**
  5. **What exercises help with finger/forearm pain?**

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Forearm endurance limitations - High frequency issue affecting progression and enjoyment
    low frequency
  • •
    Finger injury concerns - Multiple posts about phalanx pain, proper injury management
    low frequency
  • •
    Fear of falling - Significant barrier for rope climbers transitioning to bouldering
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin management - Questions about callus formation, skin recovery, climbing frequency
    low frequency
  • •
    Training structure confusion - Intermediate climbers unsure how to organize training
    low frequency
  • •
    A2 Pulley Injuries
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard training
Mixed sentiment (questions about frequency, when to start)
mixed
3+ mentions
Max hangs
Neutral (seeking information)
neutral
2+ mentions
Campus board
Positive (mentioned as fun training)
positive
2+ mentions
Volume/technique work
Positive (recommended for development)
positive
4+ mentions
Flexbar exercises
Positive (Tyler twists for elbow issues)
positive
2+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Target demographic: Strong beginner to intermediate climbers (V6-V8, 5.10-5.12) seeking structured progression
  • 💡Primary pain points: Endurance limitations, fear management, injury prevention, and training organization
  • 💡Content opportunity: Simple weekly training structures for intermediate climbers without coaches
  • 💡Community need: Better education around when/how to start finger training and hangboarding
  • 💡Underserved area: Forearm endurance training protocols and troubleshooting pump issues
  • 💡Engagement driver: Success stories with specific timelines and grade improvements resonate strongly
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering