Gym to Outdoor Boulder - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for gym to outdoor boulders (V3-V5 gym → V2-V4 outdoor). 3 sessions/week, 934 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training
bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for gym to outdoor boulders (V3-V5 gym → V2-V4 outdoor)

Preparing for your first outdoor season? Build confidence, adaptability, and the specific skills needed for real rock

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 90 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 934 moves Fitness Score: 1831.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Finger Strength Training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Technique Development
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Recovery Methods
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Grade Progression
    1+ mentions

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Footwork fundamentals**: "How do I stop cutting feet on overhangs?" with dozens of similar posts
  2. **Outdoor preparation**: "How do I train for outdoor bouldering when I only climb indoors?"
  3. **Grade comparisons**: "Why do board grades feel so much harder than gym grades?"
  4. **Beginner progression**: "Is 2 months too early to attempt V4s?" and similar timeline questions
  5. **Equipment basics**: "Do I really need my own shoes?" and gear recommendations

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Board climbing humility
    low frequency
  • •
    Outdoor vs indoor disconnect
    low frequency
  • •
    Finger injuries
    low frequency
  • •
    Height disadvantages
    low frequency
  • •
    Mental blocks
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboarding
mostly positive for finger strength, warnings about overuse
positive
15+ mentions
Board Training (Kilter/Moonboard)
mixed sentiment, humbling but effective
mixed
25+ mentions
ARC Training
positive for endurance building
positive
8+ mentions
Technique Drills
universally positive, flagging/footwork focus
positive
20+ mentions
Campus Training
neutral to positive, mostly intermediate climbers
positive
10+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Target the V2-V5 range: This represents the largest active user base based on post content
  • 💡Emphasize outdoor preparation: Huge disconnect between indoor comfort and outdoor performance
  • 💡Board integration is crucial: Users consistently mention board climbing as reality check for grades
  • 💡Technique over strength: Most successful progressions focused on movement quality rather than raw power
  • 💡Community learning preferred: Users actively seek beta and technique advice from others
  • 💡Injury prevention is major concern: Frequent mentions of finger/elbow issues from overtraining
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering