Gym to Outdoor Sport - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor). 3 sessions/week, 796 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor)

Transition from plastic to rock with mental game training, route reading skills, and outdoor-specific endurance

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 796 moves Fitness Score: 1845.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Technique over strength
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Home wall construction
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Campus board training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Fall technique
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Beta optimization
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Route Setting Discussion
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Self-directed technique focus
Result:
⏱️
Program: Consistent gym training with movement focus
Result:
⏱️
Program: Dynamic movement training
Result: Significant improvement in coordination and power moves
⏱️ 1 year of focused practice
• "Dad bod" climber developing explosive movement skills

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Home wall construction safety and effectiveness** - Multiple users seeking advice on pulley systems, angles, and crash pad setup
  2. **Proper falling technique transition from indoor to outdoor** - Concern about developing bad habits on thick gym mats
  3. **Beta optimization vs. strength building** - When to work around weaknesses vs. address them directly
  4. **Social dynamics at climbing gyms** - How to integrate into climbing communities and find partners
  5. **How to improve specific movement techniques** - Multiple posts seeking beta for challenging sequences, body positioning, and hip flexibility

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    No-texture holds causing safety issues - High frustration with slippery holds on both hands and feet
    low frequency
  • •
    Home wall engineering concerns - Safety anxiety around DIY construction and proper load distribution
    low frequency
  • •
    Gym-to-outdoor transition difficulties - Bad falling habits and lack of spotting skills from gym-only climbing
    low frequency
  • •
    Social isolation in certain gym cultures - Regional differences in climbing community openness
    low frequency
  • •
    Problematic route setting
    low frequency
  • •
    Social barriers in gyms
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Campus board training
mostly positive but technique concerns about matching
positive
3+ mentions
Hangboard/finger training
neutral discussion of strength building needs
neutral
2+ mentions
4x4s/power endurance
recommended for pumped climber on board
neutral
1+ mentions
Home wall training
mixed sentiment due to safety concerns
mixed
5+ mentions
Dynamic Training
positive sentiment around explosive movement development
positive
3+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Movement quality consistently trumps raw strength - Users repeatedly emphasize technique over power, suggesting programs should prioritize movement skills
  • 💡Outdoor transition is a major knowledge gap - Significant opportunity for content bridging indoor and outdoor skills (falling, spotting, route reading)
  • 💡Home training solutions in high demand - Users want effective home training but lack engineering/safety knowledge
  • 💡Social/community aspect is crucial - Training isn't just physical - users seek community connection and shared learning experiences
  • 💡Individual body awareness and beta optimization - Strong trend toward finding personal solutions rather than copying others' techniques
  • 💡Safety education needed - Multiple posts highlight dangerous practices and lack of fundamental safety knowledge
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering