Intermediate Mixed Climber - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for intermediate mixed climbers (V4-V5 / 5.11b-5.11d). 3 sessions/week, 1012 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate mixed climbers (V4-V5 / 5.11b-5.11d)

Balanced training for both bouldering and route climbing

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1012 moves Fitness Score: 1827.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • Finger strength training
    1+ mentions
  • Partner training/belaying
    1+ mentions
  • Skin care and recovery
    1+ mentions
  • Training with limitations
    1+ mentions
  • Equipment selection
    1+ mentions
  • Pulley Injury Frequency
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: V8-V9 Boulder Projects
Result: Multiple sends including Jizzsap Left at Smith Rock
⏱️ Extended sessions over weeks
Climber working through technical movement and sloper difficulties
Program: Sport climbing progression
Result: 5.12b/c grade improvement
⏱️ One climbing season
Trad climber expanding into sport climbing
Program: High-grade bouldering
Result: V17 sends (Shaolin and Return of the Sleepwalker)
⏱️ Single week
Elite climber Zach Galla's breakthrough week

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Skin healing and recovery**: "How long should skin take to heal?" and "Best practices for skin care?"
  2. **Belaying safety with weight differences**: "How to use devices like Edelrid Ohm properly?"
  3. **Training with injuries**: "How to maintain climbing fitness with wrist/finger limitations?"
  4. **Equipment recommendations**: "What hangboard/shoes/gear for specific needs?"
  5. **Grade progression strategies**: "How to advance from current grade to next level quickly?"

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • Skin healing taking longer than expected (high frequency - multiple detailed questions)
    low frequency
  • Weight difference belaying safety concerns (moderate frequency with technical confusion)
    low frequency
  • Fear of falling limiting progression (recurring theme in training discussions)
    low frequency
  • Finger/wrist injury management (persistent issue across experience levels)
    low frequency
  • Finding climbing partners (ongoing social challenge mentioned multiple times)
    low frequency
  • Recurring Pulley Injuries
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard Training
Mixed sentiment (positive for finger strength, concerns about injury)
positive
3+ mentions
Campus Board Training
Neutral (technique discussion)
neutral
1+ mentions
Max Hangs
Positive sentiment for strength gains
positive
2+ mentions
4x4s/Power Endurance
Neutral context
neutral
1+ mentions
Max Hangs
Mixed sentiment, strong effectiveness reports but injury concerns
mixed
15+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Injury-specific training content needed: High demand for training modifications around finger, wrist, and skin injuries
  • 💡Progressive finger strength programs: Strong interest in hangboard protocols and finger training progressions
  • 💡Safety education content: Belaying technique with weight differences is a knowledge gap
  • 💡Skin care protocols: Detailed healing timelines and care practices highly requested
  • 💡Fear management training: Falling practice and mental training components needed
  • 💡Equipment education: Specific gear selection guidance for different climbing styles and body types
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering