Intermediate Route Climber - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a). 3 sessions/week, 281.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a)

Building route-specific endurance and power-endurance capacity

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 281.5 moves Fitness Score: 1254.7/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    High-Level Bouldering
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Strength Development
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Fear of Falling in Bouldering
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Forearm Endurance Issues
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Youth Training Structure
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Recovery & Prevention
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Long-term project work
Result:
⏱️
Program: Consistent climbing practice
Result:
⏱️
Program: High volume phase (33% increase to 2+ hours, 3x/week)
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **"How do I overcome fear of falling in bouldering?"** - Sport climber comfortable at 5.12a-c but scared on V3 boulders
  2. **"What should a 16-year-old focus on for training?"** - Young competitor seeking structure for continued improvement
  3. **"Is my forearm pump normal or a medical issue?"** - 4-year climber struggling with unusual endurance problems
  4. **"How should climbing shoes fit?"** - Multiple new climbers asking about proper shoe sizing
  5. **How to structure lead climbing sessions for 5.12 breakthrough?** - Multiple users asking about endurance training and session planning for grade progression

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Injury Recovery
    medium frequency
  • •
    Equipment Decision Paralysis
    medium frequency
  • •
    Finger Pain & Weakness
    low frequency
  • •
    Abnormal Forearm Pump
    low frequency
  • •
    Fear Transfer Between Disciplines
    low frequency
  • •
    Training Structure Confusion
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Volume/Technique Work
Neutral/questioning (seeking advice on prioritization)
neutral
2+ mentions
Project Work
Extremely positive (2+ year commitment resulted in breakthrough)
positive
1+ mentions
Moonboard Training
mixed sentiment, progression challenges after initial gains
mixed
15+ mentions
Hangboard/Max Hangs
positive for strength gains, concerns about injury risk
positive
12+ mentions
Emil's No-Hang Protocol
positive for injury prevention and daily maintenance
positive
8+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Cross-Discipline Fear Management: There's a significant need for content helping sport climbers transition to bouldering, specifically addressing fall fear and commitment issues
  • 💡Youth Training Guidance: Young, rapidly progressing climbers need structured training advice that balances technique, strength, and injury prevention - this demographic is highly engaged and seeking specific guidance
  • 💡Finger Strength vs. Progression Rate: Multiple climbers are experiencing finger pain/weakness despite rapid grade progression, indicating a need for injury prevention content targeting fast progressors
  • 💡Medical vs. Normal Training Issues: Climbers need better guidance on distinguishing between normal training struggles and potential medical issues (especially regarding unusual pump/endurance problems)
  • 💡Long-term Project Methodology: The success story of 250+ attempts over 2+ years suggests there's value in content about project persistence, mental strategies, and long-term goal setting for breakthrough sends
  • 💡Social proof matters: Success stories emphasize community climbing and learning from stronger partners
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering