Lead Endurance 7a-7b - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for lead endurance 7a-7bs (7a-7b → 7b+). 3 sessions/week, 431.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for lead endurance 7a-7bs (7a-7b → 7b+)

Breaking into 7b+ territory requires next-level endurance. Systematic approach to long route capacity

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 431.5 moves Fitness Score: 997.8/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Program Effectiveness & Testing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Training Methods
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Plateau Breaking
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Volume vs. Intensity Management
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Periodization Planning
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Prevention & Recovery
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: High volume phase (33% increase)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Antihydral application
Result:
⏱️
Program: C4HP finger curls (vs traditional hangboarding)
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **"How do I break through V5-V7 plateaus on boards?"** - Most asking about Moonboard specifically, wondering if they need more strength or technique
  2. **"What's the optimal hangboard protocol intensity?"** - Confusion about 90% max feeling "too easy" vs. proper RPE targets
  3. **"How much climbing volume can I handle without injury?"** - Especially from taller/heavier climbers experiencing recurring pulley issues
  4. **"When should I add fingerboarding to my routine?"** - New climbers unsure about timing and necessity of finger training
  5. **"How do I structure lead climbing gym sessions for endurance?"** - Boulderers transitioning to sport climbing seeking session structure

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Recurring Pulley Injuries (High severity): Multiple users struggling with chronic A2/A4 pulley strains despite various prevention attempts
    low frequency
  • •
    Training App Disappointment (Moderate frequency): Users frustrated with Lattice app lacking assessments and personalization
    low frequency
  • •
    Board Climbing Intimidation (Moderate frequency): Intermediate climbers feeling overwhelmed by difficulty gap on Moonboard/system boards
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin Management Issues (High frequency): Especially younger climbers dealing with thin, sensitive fingertip skin
    low frequency
  • •
    Training Consistency (Moderate severity): Users struggling to maintain motivation and structure in training routines
    low frequency
  • •
    Lattice App Launch Disaster (High severity): Server crashes, missing assessments, no equipment customization, feels like beta software
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Lattice Training Plans
Mixed sentiment (disappointed with new app, positive on coached plans)
positive
15+ mentions
Emil Abrahamsson No-Hangs
Positive sentiment for injury recovery
positive
8+ mentions
C4HP Finger Curls
Very positive for injury-prone climbers
positive
5+ mentions
Max Hangs
Mixed (effective but injury concerns)
mixed
12+ mentions
Moonboard Training
Positive for plateau breaking but challenging entry
positive
20+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Assessment-First Approach: Users are craving personalized training based on actual strength/weakness testing rather than generic programs
  • 💡Injury Prevention Focus: There's a massive gap in helping climbers prevent recurring injuries - this could be a key differentiator
  • 💡Progressive Volume Management: Many climbers don't understand how to properly progress training volume without overuse injuries
  • 💡Board Climbing Bridge Programs: Intermediate climbers need structured progression onto system boards rather than being thrown into V4+ problems
  • 💡Real-Time Training Adjustments: Users want programs that adapt based on daily feedback rather than rigid weekly progressions
  • 💡Community-Driven Beta: Strong interest in sharing and discussing specific training approaches and results with peers
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Create fear management resources - Lead climbing fear is a significant barrier; systematic exposure therapy approaches are valued"

"Fear-based mental training: Lead climbing fear is a major progression barrier - psychological training content has high demand"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering