Intermediate Route Climber - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a). 3 sessions/week, 1115.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a)

Building route-specific endurance and power-endurance capacity

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1115.5 moves Fitness Score: 1931.5/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Hangboard Protocols
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Training Periodization
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Integration
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Skin Recovery Techniques
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Movement/Technique Coaching
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Fear management
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: First structured hangboarding routine
Result: Immediate breakthrough on crimpy climbs
⏱️ Few weeks
• Started with no weight, added 5lbs per week up to 90lbs over a year
Program: High volume training phase
Result: First moonboard send after months of plateau
⏱️ 1-2 months
• 33% volume increase from 1-1.5hr to 2hr sessions
Program: Route reading practice on harder routes
Result: Multiple flash sends
⏱️ Few weeks
• Fewer holds on harder routes made reading easier

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. How to transition from strength-focused training to technique improvement when getting strong but climbing inefficiently?
  2. What's the optimal balance between hangboard training frequency and climbing volume to avoid overuse injuries?
  3. How to structure training for specific climbing trips 3-6 months out using periodization?
  4. When to prioritize weight loss vs. strength gains for climbing performance?
  5. **"How do I overcome fear of falling on lead?"** - Multiple users seeking practical advice for building confidence with known good gear placements

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Recurring pulley injuries (high frequency/severity) - Multiple climbers reporting chronic A2/A4 issues despite following rehab protocols
    low frequency
  • •
    Technique plateaus (moderate frequency/moderate severity) - Strong climbers unable to access technique under pressure
    low frequency
  • •
    Training program confusion (high frequency/low severity) - Uncertainty about structuring weekly training between climbing, hangboarding, and strength work
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin management (moderate frequency/moderate severity) - Persistent issues with thin, raw fingertip skin limiting session frequency
    low frequency
  • •
    Fear of falling (High frequency) - Affecting progression from gym to outdoor lead climbing
    low frequency
  • •
    Hand/forearm pain (Moderate severity) - Extensor tendon issues, finger joint pain limiting climbing output
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs
mostly positive sentiment, some confusion about progression rates
positive
15+ mentions
Emil Abrahamsson No-Hangs
mixed sentiment, questions about daily frequency
mixed
8+ mentions
Moonboard Training
positive for technique/power, concerns about injury risk
positive
12+ mentions
7:3 Repeaters
positive for pulley rehab, neutral for general training
positive
6+ mentions
Lattice Training Plans
mixed sentiment, questions about personalization
mixed
4+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Finger strength training is the most discussed topic - Users need clear protocols for safe progression from beginner to advanced hangboarding
  • 💡Technique development after V6-V7 is a major gap - Strong climbers struggle to translate physical ability into efficient movement patterns
  • 💡Training periodization is poorly understood - Users want structured approaches for peaking at specific times but lack clear frameworks
  • 💡Injury prevention education is crucial - High frequency of overuse injuries suggests need for better load management guidance
  • 💡Board climbing is becoming the standard - Transition from gym climbing to board climbing is a key progression point that needs support
  • 💡Fear management is a major barrier: Many climbers need psychological tools alongside physical training - consider featuring mental training programs prominently
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering