Intermediate Sport Climber - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate sport climbers (6c-7b)

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

This program follows Carlos V3 methodology with genetic algorithm optimization. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

• Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
• Week 2: 100% volume (build)
• Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
• Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Target Level: 6c-7b (French) / 5.11a-5.12a (US) Fitness Score: 8.5/10

Weekly Schedule

Monday - Power-Endurance Intervals

Warm-up (20 min)

• Easy climbing: 10-15 routes at 5c-6a
• Dynamic movement prep
• Shoulder mobility

Main Block (90 min)

• 4x4 Boulder Intervals: 4 problems, 4 times through

  • Intensity: 85% max
  • Rest: 3 min between rounds
  • Total: ~200 moves

• Route Intervals (6c-7a)

  • 4 routes × 2 attempts each
  • Incomplete rest (3-4 min)
  • Focus: Maintaining intensity while pumped

Cool-down (20 min)

• Easy traversing
• Antagonist work: Push-ups, reverse wrist curls
• Stretching

Wednesday - Capacity Building

Warm-up (20 min)

• Progressive climbing 5c → 6b
• Route reading practice

Main Block (90 min)

• Linked Boulder Problems

  • 3-4 problems linked together
  • 6 sets total
  • Rest: 5 min between sets

• Continuous Climbing

  • 20-30 min of non-stop movement
  • Grade: 6a-6b+
  • Focus: Pace management and efficiency

Strength Block (30 min)

• Hangboard Repeaters
  • 7 sec on, 3 sec off × 6 reps
  • 3 sets per grip type
  • Intensity: 80% max

Cool-down (10 min)

• Light stretching
• Core activation

Sunday - Route Volume

Warm-up (15 min)

• Easy climbing and mobility

Main Block (110 min)

• High-Volume Route Climbing

  • 15-20 routes at 6b-7a
  • Focus: Movement quality and efficiency
  • Rest: As needed for quality

• Project Attempts

  • 2-3 routes at 7a-7b
  • Work the moves, practice sequences
  • Mental focus: Staying calm when pumped

Cool-down (15 min)

• Easy downclimbing
• Antagonist exercises
• Full-body stretching

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue. This phase prepares you for the power phase by increasing your capacity to handle high-intensity work.

Key Principles

• Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
• Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
• Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
• Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue
• Stay hydrated and fuel properly for long sessions

Equipment Required

• Indoor climbing wall
• Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
• Timer
• Training log
• Climbing shoes (1-2 pairs)
• Chalk

Grade Conversion

• 6c (French) ≈ 5.11a (US)
• 7a (French) ≈ 5.11c (US)
• 7b (French) ≈ 5.12a (US)

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization