Lead Endurance 6c-7a - Performance

Optimized performance program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 311.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
7.03
Moderate Effectiveness
Average of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
peak-performance
redpoint
mental-training
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Performance program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean)

Pumping out on lead routes? Build bulletproof power-endurance and learn to pace your way to sends

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 311.5 moves Fitness Score: 1.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve peak-performance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Finger Training Solutions
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Recovery Protocols
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Grip Strength for Smaller Hands
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Integration of Traditional Lifting + Climbing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Beginner training without facilities
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Grade progression plateaus
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Unstructured outdoor bouldering
Result:
⏱️
Program: Grade progression tracking
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **"How do I diagnose finger injuries?"** - Multiple users seeking self-assessment resources for pulley vs other finger problems
  2. **"What lifting schedule works with climbing?"** - Experienced lifters wanting to integrate climbing without losing gains
  3. **"How do I train finger strength during commute?"** - Need for portable training solutions for busy schedules
  4. **"Should I trust used climbing gear?"** - Safety concerns about second-hand equipment, especially soft goods
  5. **"I'm stuck at 6C and can't even start 7A moves - any tips?"**

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Finger pad healing limbo - Users experiencing prolonged skin recovery phases (weeks after climbing)
    low frequency
  • •
    TFCC injury persistence - Chronic wrist issues not fully resolving despite PT
    low frequency
  • •
    Grip strength limitations - Particularly for smaller-handed climbers feeling held back
    low frequency
  • •
    Training time constraints - Long commutes limiting traditional training approaches
    low frequency
  • •
    Grade progression stagnation
    low frequency
  • •
    Limited facility access
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard Training
neutral/seeking guidance sentiment
neutral
2+ mentions
Physical Therapy
mixed results, frustration with slow progress
mixed
2+ mentions
Traditional Weight Training
positive but seeking integration advice
positive
3+ mentions
Skin Care Protocols
uncertainty about effectiveness
neutral
2+ mentions
Beastmaker Hangboards
neutral/research sentiment
neutral
2+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Gap in Portable Training: High demand for finger/grip training solutions that work during commutes or travel - opportunity for mobile-friendly micro-training programs
  • 💡Injury Assessment Need: Community desperately needs reliable self-assessment tools for common climbing injuries, particularly finger and wrist issues
  • 💡Integration Over Replacement: Users don't want to abandon existing successful training (like weightlifting) but need guidance on smart integration rather than complete program overhauls
  • 💡Grade Range Focus: V8-V9 and intermediate sport climbing appears to be the most active demographic based on discussion content and sends
  • 💡Community-Driven Validation: Success stories resonate more when they include struggle and persistence narratives rather than just technical program details - suggests users want relatable journeys over perfect execution
  • 💡Recovery and Longevity: Significant concern about long-term climbing sustainability, injury prevention, and proper recovery protocols - opportunity for preventative training content
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Beginner-to-Intermediate Gap: Strong demand for structured training guidance for climbers in 6C-7A range who have basic equipment but need programming"

"Elite Performance Analysis: Community enjoys technical breakdowns of high-level climbing - opportunity for technique analysis content"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering