Advanced Boulderer - Performance

Performance phase for advanced climbers (V7-V9). 2-3x per week, peak sending phase.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2-3x per week
Equipment
Gym only
Total Sessions
6 workouts
9.5
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
performance
sending
peak

Program Overview

Performance program for Advanced Boulderers (V7-V9). Peak phase for project sending. Minimum volume, maximum rest, optimal conditions for performance.

What You'll Get

  • ✓3 weeks structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve performance
  • • Can train 2-3x per week
  • • Committed to a 3 weeks training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Power Endurance Training
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Competition Preparation
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Strength Training
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Training Protocols
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Lead Climbing Endurance
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Safety
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Board climbing + finger training
Result: V4 to links on V4+4 grades higher
⏱️ Training trip
• User attributing success to board climbing phase
Program: Max hangs
Result: V13 breakthrough after plateau
⏱️ Ongoing
• User finally broke through V13 barrier
Program: Flexibility training
Result: Near side splits achievement
⏱️ 1 year
• 10 minutes daily routine, dramatic improvement

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How steep should my board be for my grade?**
  2. **What's the optimal training frequency for boards?**
  3. **How do I train endurance in a bouldering gym?**
  4. **When should youth climbers start hangboarding?**
  5. **How do I prepare for specific crags in short timeframes?**

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Board climbing injuries
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin management during endurance training
    low frequency
  • •
    Grade inconsistency
    low frequency
  • •
    Limited coaching access
    low frequency
  • •
    Expensive youth programs
    low frequency
  • •
    Approach hiking fatigue
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs
positive sentiment, clear strength gains reported
positive
4+ mentions
CF Repeaters
positive but with skin/friction concerns
positive
3+ mentions
4x4s
highly positive for power endurance gains
positive
6+ mentions
Board Climbing
positive results but high injury concerns
positive
8+ mentions
Tindeq Training
extremely positive, "irreplaceable" described
positive
3+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Safety-first messaging needed: Users are aware board climbing is "playing with fire" - emphasize injury prevention protocols
  • 💡Short-term training is popular: Many users have 6-8 week trip deadlines, power endurance shows fastest gains
  • 💡Volume management is critical: 12+ hours/week causing burnout, 3-4 sessions more sustainable
  • 💡Endurance training adaptations needed: Gym access limitations driving creative hangboard endurance protocols
  • 💡Youth market underserved: Competition climbers seeking structured guidance without expensive coaching
  • 💡Grade-specific recommendations crucial: 50° boards unusable for V5-6 climbers, need angle-adjusted programming
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Elite Performance Analysis: Community enjoys technical breakdowns of high-level climbing - opportunity for technique analysis content"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering