Advanced Route Climber - Base Training

Optimized base training program for advanced route climbers (5.12b-5.13a). 3 sessions/week, 1799.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
endurance
aerobic-base
movement-economy
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Base Training program for advanced route climbers (5.12b-5.13a)

High-level route-specific training with power maintenance

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 180 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1799.5 moves Fitness Score: 2179.2/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Building aerobic endurance foundation through high-volume, low-intensity work. Focus on movement quality and preparing the body for more intensive training.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Cold Weather Climbing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Equipment Selection
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Rope Bag Organization
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Recovery Training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Weather Monitoring
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Sport Climbing Progression -
Result: Multiple 5.12b/c sends after breaking into 5.12a -
⏱️ 1 year progression -
• "Traddad edition" climber expanding into sport climbing
Program: Multi-year Project Training -
Result: Tim Emmett sent Era Vella 9a after 8-year siege with 130 sessions -
⏱️ 8 years -
• Multi-year commitment with final success on last planned attempt
Program: High-level Bouldering -
Result: Multiple V17/V18 sends being reported globally -
⏱️ Various -
• Elite level progression continuing to push boundaries

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Hangboard Selection**: "V5-V7 climber looking for hangboard recommendations, Beastmaker vs alternatives?"
  2. **Cold Weather Technique**: "How do you get warm fingers on the wall during cold seasons?"
  3. **Gear Sizing**: "How snug should climbing shoes be? Ordered multiple sizes, still too tight"
  4. **Training with Injuries**: "Have wrist injury limiting grip types - is fingerboard training best option?"
  5. **Equipment Compatibility**: "Should I skip GriGri and buy Revo for better lead belaying experience?"

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Seasonal Training Issues
    low frequency
  • •
    Shoe Fitting Problems
    low frequency
  • •
    Injury Management
    low frequency
  • •
    Equipment Decision Paralysis
    low frequency
  • •
    Partner Finding
    low frequency

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Equipment Guidance Needed: Users frequently overwhelmed by gear choices and need clearer decision frameworks
  • 💡Weather Integration Critical: Multiple discussions about weather tools show this is essential for outdoor climbers
  • 💡Injury-Adapted Training: Significant need for training programs that work around common climbing injuries
  • 💡Cold Weather Solutions: Seasonal challenges require specific technique and equipment recommendations
  • 💡Grade Progression Clarity: Users need better understanding of realistic timeframes and methods for grade advancement
  • 💡Community Validation: Success stories and peer feedback heavily influence training decisions and motivation
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering