Advanced Sport Climber - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for advanced sport climbers (7a-8a)

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

This program follows Carlos V3 methodology with genetic algorithm optimization. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

• Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
• Week 2: 100% volume (build)
• Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
• Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 180 minutes Target Level: 7a-8a (French) / 5.11c-5.13b (US) Fitness Score: 9.2/10

Weekly Schedule

Monday - Maximum Recruitment

Warm-up (30 min)

• Thorough shoulder and finger prep
• Progressive climbing 5c → 6c+
• Mental prep for intensity

Main Block (120 min)

• Campus Board Laddering

  • Max recruitment protocol
  • 10 sec max effort, 3 min rest
  • 5-6 sets total

• Limit Bouldering (V8-V10 / 7C-8A)

  • 3-5 move sequences at absolute limit
  • 5-7 min rest between attempts
  • 8-10 quality attempts total
  • Focus: Maximum intensity, perfect execution

• Weighted Pull-ups

  • 3-5 reps @ 85-90% max
  • 5 min rest between sets
  • 3 sets

Cool-down (30 min)

• Very light movement
• Full antagonist routine
• Extensive stretching

Wednesday - Power-Endurance Maintenance

Warm-up (25 min)

• Easy climbing and mobility

Main Block (120 min)

• Route Power Intervals (7a-7b)

  • 3 routes × 2-3 attempts
  • 8-10 min rest between routes
  • Focus: Explosiveness and power

• System Board Pyramids

  • 1-2-3-2-1 pyramid (sets)
  • Powerful moves, full rest
  • Quality over quantity

• Fingerboard Max Hangs

  • 10 sec hangs @ 95% max
  • 5 min rest between hangs
  • 4-5 grips, 3 sets each

Cool-down (35 min)

• Light traversing
• Antagonist work
• Yoga or deep stretching

Sunday - Technical Power Application

Warm-up (20 min)

• Easy climbing
• Movement quality drills

Main Block (130 min)

• Project Work (7b-8a)

  • Work limit routes/problems
  • Individual moves at limit intensity
  • Long rest between attempts (10+ min)
  • Mental skills: Visualization, breathing

• Technical Bouldering (7A-7C)

  • 6-8 problems
  • Focus: Applying power to difficult movement
  • Full rest between problems

• Core Max Strength

  • Weighted hanging leg raises
  • Front lever progressions
  • Low reps, high tension

Cool-down (30 min)

• Extensive mobility work
• Recovery protocols
• Meditation/mental recovery

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority. This phase is about building the raw strength needed for hard redpoints.

Key Principles

• Quality over quantity: Every rep should be near-maximal
• Full recovery: CNS needs complete rest between efforts
• Perfect technique: No sloppy reps, ever
• Mental focus: 100% concentration on each attempt
• Sleep priority: 8-9 hours minimum for CNS recovery
• Nutrition: High protein, adequate carbs for recovery

Equipment Required

• Indoor climbing wall
• Hangboard/fingerboard (critical for this phase)
• Campus board
• System board/spray wall
• Weighted vest or belt for pull-ups
• Timer
• Training log

Prerequisites

• 1+ year structured training
• Able to climb 7a-8a
• Completed Build-up 1 phase
• No current finger injuries (CRITICAL)
• Advanced finger strength (can hang 18mm edge)

Grade Conversion

• 7a (French) ≈ 5.11c (US)
• 7b (French) ≈ 5.12a (US)
• 7c (French) ≈ 5.12c (US)
• 8a (French) ≈ 5.13b (US)

Safety Warning

This is a HIGH-INTENSITY phase. Do NOT attempt this program if:

• You have any finger injuries
• You haven't completed proper base building
• You're new to hangboard/campus training
• You can't commit to full recovery between sessions

Injury risk is elevated in this phase. Listen to your body.

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization