Training Plan of the Day
Ofer's Pick

Max Hangs Protocol for Maximum Finger Strength

Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training

Effectiveness
8.7/10
Difficulty
6/10
Duration
8-12 weeks
⏰Perfect Timing
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finger-strength
maximum-strength
crimp strength

Program Overview

The Max Hangs protocol is the gold standard for developing maximum finger strength in climbers. Based on Eva LĂłpez's research, this protocol uses high-intensity, low-volume hangs to target maximum recruitment and develop the specific strength needed for hard climbing moves. Unlike repeaters or other endurance-focused protocols, max hangs prioritize quality over quantity, making them ideal for climbers looking to break through strength plateaus and tackle harder grades.