Repeaters Protocol for Power Endurance

Develop finger power endurance for sustained hard climbing

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2-3x per week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
Good base finger strength
8.3
Good Effectiveness
Top 35% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
finger endurance
anaerobic capacity

Program Overview

The Repeaters protocol targets the critical gap between maximum strength and endurance - power endurance. This training method uses repeated 7-second hangs with minimal rest to develop the ability to maintain high force output over multiple moves.

Perfect for sport climbers tackling long routes or boulderers working extended problems, repeaters build the specific endurance needed for sustained hard climbing.

What You'll Get

  • ✓6-10 weeks structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 2-3x per week
  • • Committed to a 6-10 weeks training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency
  • • New to climbing training programs (try beginner programs first)

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Competition Preparation
    3+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Training Protocols
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Safety
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Dominance
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Grade Plateaus
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury Management
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: High volume board climbing (2+ hours, 3x/week)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Lattice coaching (4 months)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Consistent board climbing + hangboarding
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How much board climbing is too much without getting injured?**
  2. **What's the best hangboard protocol for small edge strength?**
  3. **How do I break through the V5/5.12 plateau?**
  4. **Should I train max hangs or repeaters for finger strength?**
  5. **How do I balance climbing volume with structured training?**

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Board climbing injuries
    medium frequency
  • •
    Overuse injuries from board climbing (High frequency - multiple A2 pulley strains reported)
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin limitations preventing high volume training (Moderate frequency - especially with small edges)
    low frequency
  • •
    Plateau frustration at intermediate grades (Very high frequency - V5-8 range most common)
    low frequency
  • •
    Program adherence without coaching (Moderate frequency - new Lattice app disappointment)
    low frequency
  • •
    Time management between training and climbing (High frequency - work/life balance)
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Moonboard/Board Climbing
Mixed sentiment (effective but injury-prone)
mixed
25+ mentions
Max Hangs Protocol
Positive sentiment for strength gains
positive
15+ mentions
C4HP Finger Curls
Very positive sentiment for injury prevention
positive
10+ mentions
Emil's No-Hang Routine
Positive sentiment for daily maintenance
positive
8+ mentions
Lattice Training Plans
Mixed/negative sentiment (new app underwhelming)
negative
12+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Board climbing is the dominant training trend but comes with high injury risk - users need injury prevention education alongside program recommendations
  • 💡The V5/5.12 plateau is extremely common and requires specific approaches combining technique work, volume building, and weakness identification rather than just strength training
  • 💡Finger strength protocols are evolving from traditional hangboarding toward isometric pulls (C4HP, Tindeq-based) with better injury profiles
  • 💡Time-constrained climbers need hybrid approaches that combine climbing and training rather than separate sessions
  • 💡Community validation is crucial - multiple users mentioned comparing grades/progress with others as motivation, suggesting social features would be valuable
  • 💡Specificity matters more at higher grades - advanced climbers need route-specific or move-pattern-specific training rather than general programs
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Technique Over Strength: Strong community emphasis on movement quality and efficiency over raw power, especially for beginners and intermediates"

"Injury Prevention Priority: High awareness of finger injuries and need for progressive, safe training protocols"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering