Short Climber (<5'6") - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for short climber (<5'6")s (V4-V6). 3 sessions/week, 329 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for short climber (<5'6")s (V4-V6)

Build the explosive power and creative problem-solving needed to compensate for reach on reachy problems

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 90 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 329 moves Fitness Score: 1251.9/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Injury Prevention & Management
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Height-Specific Climbing Techniques
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Hand Recovery Methods
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Holiday/Travel Climbing
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: First-time climbing session
Result: Completed two 5.9 routes
⏱️ Single session
• Complete beginner, 4'11" height
Program: Return from injury training
Result: Working back to previous grade levels
⏱️ Since February (10+ months recovery)
• 6-year climbing veteran dealing with weight gain during injury

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Hand recovery after first climbing session** - New climber seeking immediate recovery strategies
  2. **Extensor tendon pain management** - Experienced climber with specific forearm pain during loading/unloading
  3. **Height disadvantage compensation** - Short climber (4'11") seeking technique advice for reach limitations
  4. **Equipment safety verification** - Anchor knot safety confirmation

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Forearm extensor tendon pain - Moderate frequency, affecting climbing performance and enjoyment
    low frequency
  • •
    Height-related reach limitations - Specific demographic concern for shorter climbers
    low frequency
  • •
    Recovery knowledge gaps - New climbers lacking post-session recovery protocols
    low frequency
  • •
    Gym etiquette issues - Children running unsupervised in climbing areas (moderate complaints)
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Tyler Twist Exercise
negative sentiment (ineffective for extensor tendon pain)
negative
1+ mentions
Flexbar Training
positive sentiment (effective for elbow issues)
positive
1+ mentions
Return-to-climbing protocols
neutral sentiment (seeking structured approach)
neutral
1+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Address Recovery Education Gap: New climbers urgently need post-session recovery guidance - this is an immediate pain point affecting retention
  • 💡Create Height-Specific Content: Shorter climbers represent an underserved demographic seeking technique modifications and route-reading strategies
  • 💡Expand Injury Prevention Resources: Extensor tendon pain appears to be an emerging issue not well-addressed by traditional elbow injury protocols (Tyler Twist ineffective)
  • 💡Develop Equipment Safety Verification Tools: Climbers actively seek validation for safety-critical decisions like anchor configurations
  • 💡Target Return-to-Climbing Demographics: Injured climbers returning after extended breaks need structured, supportive programming and community connections
  • 💡Leverage Elite Performance Content: High-level sends (V17 achievements) generate significant engagement and community excitement, useful for inspiration and retention
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering