Tension Board Crusher - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for tension board crushers (V5-V7 Tension). 3 sessions/week, 1533.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training
bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for tension board crushers (V5-V7 Tension)

Moon/Tension board training with progressive overload and finger strength emphasis

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 90 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1533.5 moves Fitness Score: 2152.2/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Hangboard Training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Body Positioning & Tension
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Technical Skills
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Fear Management
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Strength Training
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Kilter/Tension Board training
Result: V5-V8 progression in 6-8 months
📈 V5-V8
⏱️ 3-4 sessions/week
• Gym climbers transitioning to boards for weakness targeting
Program: Hangboard max hangs (5 sec holds on 20mm)
Result: Finger strength gains enabling V6-V7 sends
📈 V6-V7
⏱️ 3-6 months consistent training
• Intermediate climbers hitting finger strength plateaus
Program: Technique focus on easy climbs
Result: Better efficiency and grade progression
⏱️ 2-3 months
• Beginners muscling through problems learning proper movement

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. "How do I improve heel hooks and toe hooks?" - Multiple users struggling with leg engagement and flexibility
  2. "Should I hangboard as a beginner?" - New climbers asking about finger training timing and safety
  3. "How do I get better at slab/overhangs?" - Style-specific training questions
  4. "What's the best way to train finger strength?" - Edge protocols, hold types, progression methods
  5. **Finger strength maintenance with limited time** - Multiple users asking about 2x/week vs daily options

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Finger injuries from overtraining - High frequency, especially A2 pulleys and synovitis from too much too soon
    low frequency
  • •
    Plateau at intermediate grades (V4-V6) - Common sticking point requiring technique refinement
    low frequency
  • •
    Fear of falling/heights - Mental barriers limiting progression on taller problems
    low frequency
  • •
    Imbalanced training - Overemphasis on pulling strength vs. pushing, legs, core
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin limitations before strength limitations - High frequency issue among V3+ boulderers
    low frequency
  • •
    Finger tweakiness and early injury signs - Multiple users reporting similar symptoms
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard Training
Mixed sentiment (effective but injury-prone if rushed)
mixed
15+ mentions
Board Climbing (Kilter/Tension/Moon)
Positive sentiment for specific weakness training
positive
20+ mentions
Volume Training on Easy Grades
Positive for technique development
positive
10+ mentions
Max Hangs Protocol
Positive for finger strength when done safely
positive
8+ mentions
Hangboard/Fingerboard Training
mixed sentiment (effective but injury concerns)
mixed
8+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Progressive Loading is Critical: Users repeatedly emphasized gradual progression in finger training to avoid injury
  • 💡Technique Training on Easy Grades: Strong consensus that drilling movement on easier problems transfers to harder grades
  • 💡Mental Training is Underemphasized: Many users struggle with fear but few have structured approaches to address it
  • 💡Board Training for Specific Weaknesses: Effective for targeting specific movement patterns and styles
  • 💡Community Learning: Users frequently mention learning from watching others and asking for beta/advice
  • 💡Session Structure Matters: Importance of warmup routines and not jumping straight into limit attempts
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength"

"Board Training Confusion: Users uncertain about home setup investments and different board systems - opportunity for guidance on training tool selection"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering