Tension Board Crusher - Performance

Optimized performance program for tension board crushers (V5-V7 Tension). 3 sessions/week, 250.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
peak-performance
redpoint
mental-training
bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Performance program for tension board crushers (V5-V7 Tension)

Moon/Tension board training with progressive overload and finger strength emphasis

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 90 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 250.5 moves Fitness Score: 1737.3/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve peak-performance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Training Periodization
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Overhang Weakness
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Training Protocols
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Focus
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Moonboard plateau and volume progression
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Finger strength training protocols
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Volume increase (33% more session time)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Hangboarding (home setup, 2-3x/week)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Max hang protocol (Crimpd app, 90% intensity)
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Frequency and intensity balance**: "How many hangboard/board sessions per week without overuse?"
  2. **Edge size progression**: "When to move from 20mm to smaller edges vs. adding more weight?"
  3. **Volume vs. intensity for plateaus**: "More climbing time or harder training protocols?"
  4. **Injury prevention strategies**: "Why do I keep getting pulley injuries despite proper protocols?"
  5. **"How do I control swing on dynamic moves?"** - Multiple posts about cutting feet and controlling momentum on big moves

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Technique regression under pressure
    medium frequency
  • •
    Pulley injury cycles
    low frequency
  • •
    Moonboard intimidation
    low frequency
  • •
    Training app limitations
    low frequency
  • •
    Load management confusion
    low frequency
  • •
    Access Issues with Outdoor Destinations
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs/Hangboarding
Mixed sentiment, strong results but injury concerns
mixed
15+ mentions
Moonboard/Board Climbing
Positive for strength gains, challenging for technique development
positive
12+ mentions
Emil Abrahangs
Very positive for finger health and rehab
positive
8+ mentions
C4HP Protocol
Positive results, discussion about implementation details
positive
6+ mentions
Lattice Training Plans
Negative sentiment regarding new app launch
negative
5+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Grade Calibration Tools: Users desperately need better outdoor vs indoor grade translation resources
  • 💡Body Type Specific Beta: Significant demand for height/body-type specific route guidance and beta
  • 💡Rest Period Education: Major knowledge gap around proper rest timing between attempts (most under-resting)
  • 💡Footwork Drill Content: High engagement with footwork technique content - users hungry for specific drills
  • 💡Board Progression Programs: Need for structured board climbing introduction programs to ease intimidation factor
  • 💡Injury Prevention Focus: Strong interest in falling technique and injury prevention, especially for slab climbing
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength"

"Elite Performance Analysis: Community enjoys technical breakdowns of high-level climbing - opportunity for technique analysis content"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering