Weekend Warrior Sport - Performance

Optimized performance program for weekend warrior sports (5.11a-5.12a). 2 sessions/week, 160.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
peak-performance
redpoint
mental-training
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Performance program for weekend warrior sports (5.11a-5.12a)

Make the most of your weekend climbing sessions with strategic endurance work and technique refinement

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 160.5 moves Fitness Score: 1569.8/100

Weekly Schedule

Friday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve peak-performance
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Elite Performance Analysis: Community enjoys technical breakdowns of high-level climbing - opportunity for technique analysis content"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering