Weekend Warrior V5 - Performance

Optimized performance program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6). 2 sessions/week, 166 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
peak-performance
redpoint
mental-training
bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Performance program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6)

Limited to weekends only? Maximize your 2 quality sessions with high-efficiency training designed for busy professionals

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 166 moves Fitness Score: 1982.4/100

Weekly Schedule

Friday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve peak-performance
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Finger strength training for commuters
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Weight considerations for belaying
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Injury self-diagnosis
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Training integration with weightlifting
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Skin care and healing
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: V14/8C+ sends (Sung Su Lee)
Result:
⏱️
Program: Smith Rock bouldering (Jizz Sap Left V8-9)
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Can heavier climbers safely climb with smaller belayers?** - Safety and equipment concerns for weight mismatched partnerships
  2. **How to train fingers during long commutes?** - Need for portable, safe training methods
  3. **How to self-diagnose finger injuries?** - Distinguishing between pulley injuries and other finger problems
  4. **Should I wait to lose weight before getting serious about climbing?** - Fitness level requirements for safe climbing
  5. **How to integrate climbing with existing lifting schedules?** - Balancing 5-6 day lifting programs with climbing training

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    TFCC injuries with incomplete recovery - High concern about permanent limitations
    low frequency
  • •
    Finger skin healing taking weeks - Frustration with extended recovery periods
    low frequency
  • •
    Gear availability and safety for larger climbers - Equipment and partner limitations
    low frequency
  • •
    Commute time limiting training options - Need for creative training solutions
    low frequency
  • •
    Used gear safety assessment - Uncertainty about 10+ year old climbing equipment
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboard training
neutral/seeking alternatives for commute training
neutral
2+ mentions
Finger injury rehabilitation/PT
mixed results, ongoing struggles
mixed
3+ mentions
General fitness integration
seeking guidance on combining lifting with climbing
neutral
1+ mentions
Skin care protocols
seeking effective healing methods
neutral
2+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Address practical training barriers: Many climbers need solutions for limited time/space constraints (commuting, small spaces)
  • 💡Create comprehensive injury resources: High demand for self-assessment tools and recovery protocols, especially finger injuries
  • 💡Develop inclusive content for diverse body types: Address safety and equipment concerns for climbers outside typical demographic
  • 💡Focus on real-world integration: More content needed on balancing climbing with other fitness activities rather than climbing-only programs
  • 💡Emphasize long-term progression stories: Community values authentic project attempts and multi-session efforts over quick fixes
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Elite Performance Analysis: Community enjoys technical breakdowns of high-level climbing - opportunity for technique analysis content"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering