What is Fingerboarding?
Fingerboarding is a specific training exercise for climbing that focuses on developing finger strength. A fingerboard (also called a hangboard) is a training tool with various grip holds that you hang from with your fingers. While it's an effective training method, it's important to understand the basics before diving in.
Should Beginners Use a Fingerboard?
If you're new to climbing (in your first months or even first few years), you should focus primarily on climbing technique and movement skills. Most of your finger strength will develop naturally through regular climbing at this stage.
As the experts in the video suggest, there's no perfect time to start fingerboarding, but you should have a good foundation in climbing first. Fingerboarding doesn't replace climbing - it supplements it!
When You're Ready to Start
When you do decide to incorporate fingerboarding, beginners should start with:
- Longer duration hangs (15-20 seconds) at lower intensity
- Repeater sessions (explained below)
- Just once per week, separate from climbing days at first
This approach helps develop the structures in your fingers and forearms, building a solid foundation before moving to higher intensity training.
Basic Fingerboard Terminology
Edge Depth
This refers to how deep the hold is that you're hanging from. For beginners, start with larger edges (around 20mm, which is about the depth of your first finger crease).
Grip Position
There are different ways to position your fingers on holds:
- Open hand: Fingers are relatively straight
- Half crimp: Fingers bent at approximately 90 degrees (recommended for beginners)
- Full crimp: Fingers bent with thumb wrapped over fingertips (generally avoided during training)
Number of Fingers
As a beginner, stick with four-finger hangs on a 20mm edge in a half-crimp position. This combination provides the most balanced training effect.
Proper Hanging Form
Good form is crucial to prevent injury:
- Engage your shoulders: Don't hang with completely relaxed shoulders (ears touching shoulders) or overly engaged. Find a middle ground where your shoulders are activated but not straining.
- Keep your core engaged: Tighten your abs and glutes to maintain a straight body position.
- Arms position: Keep arms straight or slightly bent, but not excessively bent.
Simple Beginner Protocol
When you're ready to try fingerboarding, here's a simple approach:
- Warm up thoroughly with easy climbing or light hangs
- Choose a hold that allows you to hang comfortably for 15-20 seconds
- Perform 3-4 sets of 15-second hangs with 2-3 minutes rest between sets
- Focus on maintaining good form throughout
- Stop if you feel any pain (not just effort)
Key Takeaways for Beginners
- Fingerboarding is an advanced supplementary training tool
- Focus on climbing technique first - you'll gain finger strength through climbing
- If you do start fingerboarding, begin with longer, lower-intensity hangs
- Form is critical - engage shoulders properly and maintain good body position
- Start with just one session per week, separate from climbing
- Be patient - finger strength develops gradually over months and years
Remember, at the V0-V4 level, your climbing will improve much more through practice, movement skills, and technique than through specific finger strength training. When in doubt, climb more and have fun!