Intermittent Finger Endurance Testing: Optimizing for Men and Women
Not all finger endurance tests work equally well for all climbers. Research examining how test parameters affect the correlation with climbing performance reveals important differences between male and female climbers.
The Challenge
Intermittent finger flexor endurance tests require climbers to repeatedly contract at a target force (typically a percentage of maximum) with brief rest intervals. But how much deviation from the target should be allowed?
Too strict: Minor fluctuations fail the test Too lenient: The test doesn't measure what it should
Finding the optimal tolerance is critical for valid testing.
Study Design
Researchers had male and female climbers perform intermittent finger endurance tests while precisely tracking force output. They then calculated which tolerance levels produced the strongest correlation with actual lead climbing ability.
Key Findings
Optimal Tolerance Differs by Sex
For female climbers, the highest correlation with climbing performance was found when allowing 9% deviation in force and 1 second deviation in timing.
For male climbers, optimal results came from 6% force deviation and 1 second timing deviation.
Why the Difference?
The researchers propose several explanations. Female climbers may have different neuromuscular control characteristics. Body composition differences could affect force consistency. Training backgrounds may influence force production patterns.
Practical Impact
Using sex-appropriate tolerances improved the test's ability to predict climbing performance by 10-15% compared to one-size-fits-all protocols.
What This Means for Testing
For Research
Studies comparing male and female climbers should use appropriate tolerances for each group. Mixing protocols may obscure actual performance relationships.
For Coaches
When testing athletes, consider using different tolerance settings for male and female climbers to get more meaningful results.
For Individual Climbers
If self-testing, understand that force fluctuations are normal. Using appropriate tolerances gives more useful information than overly strict protocols that fail on minor variations.
Recommended Test Parameters
For Female Climbers
Force tolerance: 9% (if target is 60% of max, acceptable range is 54-66%) Time tolerance: 1 second (for target pulls and rest periods) Work-rest ratio: 7:3 or 8:2 seconds Target force: 60% of maximum
For Male Climbers
Force tolerance: 6% (if target is 60% of max, acceptable range is 56-64%) Time tolerance: 1 second Work-rest ratio: 7:3 or 8:2 seconds Target force: 60% of maximum
Test Setup Recommendations
Equipment
Use a force sensor that provides real-time feedback. Display current force level visually. Set up a climbing hold at appropriate depth (20-23mm commonly used).
Protocol
Determine maximum finger strength first. Calculate target force (typically 60% of maximum). Set appropriate tolerances based on sex. Continue until failure to maintain target.
Outcome Measures
Primary measure: Time to failure (total sustained effort). Secondary measures: Force-time integral, number of successful contractions.
Why Tolerance Matters
Too Strict (Under 5%)
Many failed attempts due to normal neuromuscular variation. Frustrating testing experience. May not reflect actual climbing capacity.
Optimal (5-9%)
Accounts for normal variation. Requires meaningful effort to maintain. Strong correlation with climbing performance.
Too Lenient (Over 10%)
Allows significant deviation from target. May not stress the intended energy systems. Weaker relationship to climbing performance.
Limitations
Single Study
These recommendations come from one study. Replication with larger samples would strengthen confidence.
Specific Population
The climbers studied may not represent all populations. Different recommendations might apply to beginners or very elite athletes.
Equipment Dependency
Results assume access to force measurement equipment. Visual biofeedback systems vary in quality.
The Bigger Picture
This research highlights that "one size fits all" testing protocols may miss important information. Optimizing test parameters for the specific population being assessed improves the value of testing for training decisions.
For coaches and researchers, taking time to implement appropriate protocols pays dividends in data quality and practical utility.
Based on: Augste C, Winkler M and Kunzell S (2022) Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living