Upper Body Force and Power: What Separates Climbing Levels
How much stronger are elite climbers than intermediates? Research comparing 78 male sport climbers across three performance levels provides precise data on the force and power differences that separate climbing grades.
Study Design
Researchers tested climbers at three levels:
Intermediate: 6a-6c+ (IRCRA 11-15) Advanced: 7a-7c+ (IRCRA 16-20) Elite: 8a and above (IRCRA 21+)
Each climber performed an isometric pulling test on a 23mm rung, measuring peak force and how quickly they could generate that force (rate of force development, or RFD).
Key Findings
Peak Force Differences
Elite climbers produced significantly more force than both advanced and intermediate climbers. The specific values showed clear progression: Elite climbers produced approximately 30% more peak force than intermediate climbers. Advanced climbers fell between the two groups. The difference between adjacent levels was statistically significant.
Rate of Force Development
RFD - how quickly force is generated - also differentiated performance levels. Elite climbers reached peak force faster. This matters for dynamic moves where time to generate force is limited.
Relative vs. Absolute Strength
When force was normalized to body weight, the pattern remained similar. Climbing ability correlated with relative strength, confirming the importance of strength-to-weight ratio.
What This Means
Clear Physical Thresholds
The data suggests that certain strength levels are needed to climb at specific grades. While technique and tactics matter, force production capacity sets physical limits.
RFD Matters
It's not just about peak strength - the speed of force production distinguishes levels too. This has implications for training explosive power, not just maximum strength.
Training Targets
Knowing the force levels associated with each climbing grade helps set specific training targets. If you want to climb 8a, you know approximately how strong you need to become.
Strength Benchmarks
While individual variation exists, the data provides rough benchmarks:
For Intermediate Climbing (6a-6c+)
Develop a solid strength foundation. Peak force adequate for most moderate movements. RFD less critical at this level.
For Advanced Climbing (7a-7c+)
Significant strength gains needed beyond intermediate. Begin developing explosive power. Force production approaching what's needed for dynamic moves.
For Elite Climbing (8a+)
Maximum strength well above lower levels. Rapid force development for dynamic movements. Maintained strength-to-weight ratio despite higher absolute strength.
Training Implications
For Intermediates Looking to Advance
Focus on building finger strength through progressive overload. Hangboard training becomes valuable. Don't neglect pulling strength (not just finger-specific).
For Advanced Climbers Targeting Elite
Continue strength development but add power training. Include rate of force development exercises. Campus board and explosive movements become more relevant.
For All Levels
The correlation between strength measures and climbing ability was moderate to strong (around 0.5-0.7). This means strength matters, but isn't everything. Technique, tactics, and mental skills fill the remaining gap.
Test Protocol Details
Setup
23mm wooden rung mounted to force sensor. Half-crimp grip position. 90-degree elbow angle at start. Bilateral (two-handed) pulling.
Execution
Pull as hard and as fast as possible. Hold maximum effort for 3 seconds. Three attempts with 3-minute rest between. Best attempt used for analysis.
Measures
Peak force (highest force reached). RFD at 50, 100, and 200 milliseconds. Time to peak force.
Limitations
Male Climbers Only
Results apply directly to male climbers. Female climbers may show different patterns.
Cross-Sectional Design
The study compared different climbers, not tracked individuals over time. It shows association, not causation.
Isometric Testing Only
Real climbing involves dynamic movement. Isometric tests may not capture all relevant strength qualities.
Practical Takeaways
- Strength clearly matters - Force production correlates with climbing level
- Speed of force generation matters too - RFD differentiates levels beyond just peak force
- Set specific targets - Use benchmarks to guide training goals
- Test yourself - Measuring your force production helps identify where you stand and what to train
- Don't ignore other factors - Strength is necessary but not sufficient for climbing advancement
Based on: Vereide V, Andersen V, Hermans E, Kalland J, Saeterbakken AH and Stien N (2022) Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living