Optimal Hangboard Training Intensity: What the Research Shows
Should you train finger strength with heavy loads and short hangs, or lighter loads and longer durations? A controlled study tested different hangboard intensities to determine what works best for developing finger strength, stamina, and endurance.
The Study Design
Advanced to elite climbers (7b-8c+ lead ability) were divided into three groups training twice weekly for 4 weeks:
Group 1: Maximum Strength Focus (80% intensity)
- 80% of their maximum hang capacity
- 10-second hangs
- 5 sets with 3-minute rest
- Added weight as needed to reach 80%
Group 2: Stamina Focus (60% intensity)
- 60% of maximum
- 20-second hangs
- 4 sets with 2-minute rest
- Moderate intensity, longer duration
Group 3: Endurance Focus (40% intensity)
- 40% of maximum
- 40-second hangs
- 3 sets with 1-minute rest
- Light intensity, longest duration
All groups used a 23mm edge with half-crimp grip.
What They Measured
Before and after the 4-week training period, researchers tested maximum finger strength (peak force during a 5-second maximum hang), finger stamina (time to maintain 60% of max during continuous contraction), and finger endurance (time to failure using intermittent 8-2 second on-off contractions at 60%).
Key Results
Maximum Strength Improvements
80% intensity group improved by 12.5%, 60% intensity group improved by 9.7%, and 40% intensity group improved by 6.7%.
All groups improved, but the high-intensity group showed the largest gains. The difference between 80% and 40% groups was statistically significant.
Stamina Results
No significant differences between groups. All intensities produced similar stamina improvements, ranging from 8-15% depending on the measure used.
Endurance Results
No significant differences between groups. Intermittent endurance improved similarly across all training intensities.
What This Means
For Maximum Strength, high-intensity training (80% of max, 10-second hangs) is most effective. This aligns with general strength training principles - to get stronger, train near your maximum.
For Stamina and Endurance, training intensity matters less than previously thought. Both high and low intensity protocols improved these capacities. This suggests you can develop endurance during strength-focused training phases.
For Time Efficiency, if your goal is overall finger fitness, high-intensity training may be most efficient since it improves strength the most while producing similar endurance gains.
Training Protocol Details
Here's exactly what each protocol looked like:
80% Protocol (High Intensity) Structure: 5 sets of 10-second hangs with 3-minute rest between sets. Progression: Add weight when all sets completed successfully. Session Duration: About 20-25 minutes total.
60% Protocol (Medium Intensity) Structure: 4 sets of 20-second hangs with 2-minute rest between sets. Progression: Add weight when all sets completed. Session Duration: About 15-20 minutes total.
40% Protocol (Low Intensity) Structure: 3 sets of 40-second hangs with 1-minute rest between sets. Progression: Add weight when all sets completed. Session Duration: About 10-15 minutes total.
Important Considerations
Training Experience Matters Participants were already advanced climbers with hangboard experience. Beginners might respond differently and should start with lower intensities.
Hold Depth Was Consistent All climbers used the same 23mm edge. Results might differ with smaller or larger edges that change the strength-endurance relationship.
Duration Was Short Four weeks is relatively brief. Longer training periods might show different patterns, especially for endurance adaptations.
Climbing Continued Participants maintained their normal climbing schedule. The hangboard training was supplemental, not replacement for climbing.
Practical Recommendations
If Finger Strength Is Your Priority, use the 80% protocol: heavy loads, 10-second hangs, 5 sets, 3 minutes rest. Focus on progressive overload.
If Time Is Limited, the high-intensity protocol takes less total time and improves all three qualities. It's the most efficient approach.
If Recovering From Injury, the 40% protocol offers a lower-risk option that still improves capacity. Consult with a healthcare provider first.
For Periodization, you can vary intensity across training phases knowing that all intensities improve stamina and endurance, but strength requires higher loads.
Sample 4-Week Program
Week 1: Test your maximum hang on your target edge. Calculate training loads for each intensity.
Weeks 2-4: Train twice weekly with at least 48 hours between sessions.
Week 4 End: Retest to measure progress.
The Bottom Line
High-intensity hangboard training (80% of max) produces the best strength gains while still improving stamina and endurance. If you only have time for one type of hangboard training, evidence supports prioritizing intensity over volume.
Based on: Devise M, Lechaptois C, Berton E and Vigouroux L (2022) Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living