The State of Climbing Science in 2025: What Researchers Are Discovering
The world of climbing research has matured significantly. With climbing now featured in two Olympic Games, scientists are diving deeper into what makes climbers perform at elite levels—and how to keep them healthy along the way.
A recent collection of eight research papers from 32 researchers across multiple continents provides a comprehensive look at the current state of climbing science. Here's what you need to know.
Climbing Research Has Come of Age
As the editorial team from Frontiers in Sports and Active Living notes, climbing research has evolved dramatically. Authors no longer need to explain what climbing is or how it's organized—the sport has earned its place in mainstream sports science.
Key developments include:
- More rigorous research methodologies
- Randomized controlled trials (still rare, but emerging)
- Global collaboration across continents
- Discipline-specific analysis (bouldering vs. sport vs. trad)
- Gender and performance-level stratification
The Height Debate: What Elite Boulderers Actually Look Like
One of the most debated topics in climbing is whether height helps or hurts performance. New research comparing World Cup elite boulderers with national-level climbers and non-climbers provides data-driven answers.
The study by Draga et al. examines the morphology of elite boulderers, comparing them with lower-level competitors. While the full findings may surprise some climbers, the research emphasizes that body composition and specific physical attributes matter more than simple height measurements.
Eating Disorders and Social Media: A Growing Concern
Perhaps the most concerning research addresses the intersection of social media use and disordered eating behaviors among climbers. The study by Slagel et al. examines:
- Low Energy Availability (LEA): When caloric intake doesn't match energy expenditure
- RED-S (Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport): A syndrome affecting multiple body systems
- Social media's influence: How food tracking apps and climbing social media affect body image
Critical finding: These issues affect recreational climbers, not just elite athletes. The everyday climbers you meet at the gym or crag may be struggling with these pressures.
Recommendations from Researchers:
- Social media campaigns promoting healthy body image
- Education about the risks of chronic energy deficiency
- Recognition that performance optimization shouldn't come at the cost of health
Training Optimization: What Actually Works
The research collection includes important studies on training methodology:
Randomized Controlled Trial on Climbing Training
Saeterbakken et al. present one of the few randomized controlled trials in climbing literature, examining specific training interventions. This type of rigorous research is crucial for moving beyond anecdotal training advice.
Recovery Optimization
Krupková et al. investigate optimal recovery methods for climbers, providing evidence-based guidance on how to balance training load with adequate recovery.
Performance Prediction
Draga's research examines what physical features best predict climbing performance, helping climbers and coaches focus training efforts on the most impactful areas.
Treating Common Finger Injuries
Two papers provide treatment algorithms for common finger injuries:
Capsulitis Treatment Protocol
Schöffl et al. present a systematic approach to treating capsulitis, one of the most frustrating chronic finger conditions affecting climbers.
Synovial Chondromatosis
Becker et al. address synovial chondromatosis, a less common but significant finger condition that can derail climbing careers if not properly treated.
Why Climbers Don't Seek Medical Help
One of the most eye-opening studies examines barriers to healthcare-seeking behavior among climbers in Manila (Cruz and Cabrera). The findings reflect a global pattern:
Common barriers include:
- Distrust of healthcare providers' climbing knowledge
- Fear of being told to stop climbing
- Belief that injuries will heal on their own
- Financial concerns
- Difficulty finding climbing-informed medical professionals
This research highlights the need for better climbing-specific medical education and more accessible sports medicine resources.
What This Means for Your Training
For Recreational Climbers:
- Don't obsess over body composition: Research shows BMI isn't the predictor of performance many believe
- Monitor your energy intake: Ensure you're fueling adequately for your training load
- Seek professional help early: Don't let minor issues become chronic problems
For Competitive Climbers:
- Follow evidence-based training protocols: Look for programs backed by research
- Prioritize recovery: It's as important as the training itself
- Address finger issues promptly: Treatment algorithms exist—use them
For Coaches:
- Stay current with research: The field is evolving rapidly
- Consider gender differences: Men and women may need different approaches
- Monitor athlete wellbeing: Watch for signs of disordered eating or overtraining
Looking Forward
The climbing research community is planning a third volume of this research topic in early 2026, promising even more insights into injury prevention, training optimization, and performance enhancement.
As the editorial team states: "The research has the potential to help the sport of climbing to reach new heights and fulfill its potential, without injuries!"
Key Takeaways
- Climbing science is increasingly rigorous with more controlled trials and global collaboration
- Body composition concerns affect climbers at all levels, not just elites
- Social media can negatively influence climbers' relationship with food and body image
- Evidence-based treatment protocols now exist for common finger injuries
- Healthcare access remains a barrier for many climbers worldwide
- Training optimization should be based on research, not just tradition
Research Reference: Grønhaug G, Saeterbakken AH, Schöffl VR, Schweizer A, El Sheik Y. "Editorial: Injuries, injury prevention and training in climbing - volume II." Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 2025;7:1649613. doi:10.3389/fspor.2025.1649613