Understanding How Gender and Training Goals Affect Climbing Injuries
A comprehensive new study published in BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine has shed light on the complex relationship between gender, training aims, and injury patterns in climbing. With data from 1,513 climbers across 41 countries, this research provides crucial insights that can help climbers train smarter and stay injury-free.
The Big Picture: Climbing Injuries Are Common
The study found that 50.3% of climbers experienced at least one injury in the past 12 months. This high prevalence underscores the importance of understanding injury patterns and implementing effective prevention strategies.
Key Statistics:
- 758 climbers reported injuries out of 1,513 surveyed
- Average age of participants: 34.9 years
- Years of climbing experience: 12.6 years on average
- Weekly climbing frequency: 2.61 sessions
Gender Matters: Different Bodies, Different Injuries
One of the most striking findings is how injury patterns differ dramatically between male and female climbers.
Women's Injury Profile: Shoulders Take the Hit
For female climbers, shoulders were the most commonly injured body part, accounting for 35% of injuries. This was followed by:
- Fingers (28%)
- Elbows (17.5%)
- Wrists (15%)
- Knees (12.5%)
Men's Injury Profile: Finger Injuries Dominate
Male climbers showed a completely different pattern, with fingers being the most affected at 48.3%. Their injury breakdown:
- Shoulders (23.4%)
- Elbows (18.9%)
- Knees (12.4%)
- Wrists (10.9%)
Why the Difference?
The researchers point to several factors:
- Anatomical differences: Women may have less upper body muscle mass relative to body weight, potentially placing more stress on shoulder structures during dynamic movements
- Climbing technique variations: Research suggests women may rely more on technique and body positioning, which could transfer load differently through the kinetic chain
- Hormonal factors: Fluctuations in estrogen and progesterone may affect tendon and ligament properties
Training Aim Impacts Injury Risk
The study identified three main training approaches, each with different injury implications:
1. Training for Competition
Competitive climbers showed specific injury patterns related to high-intensity training loads and sport-specific demands.
2. Training for Performance
Climbers focused on personal bests and grade progression were more likely to push physical limits, potentially increasing injury risk.
3. Training for Fitness/Recreation
Those climbing primarily for fitness or fun showed generally lower injury rates, though specific patterns emerged.
Multi-Discipline Climbers: Higher Risk
Climbers who practiced multiple disciplines (bouldering, sport climbing, trad, etc.) had a 1.46 times higher risk of injury compared to single-discipline specialists. This finding suggests that:
- Variable movement patterns across disciplines may increase cumulative stress
- Different disciplines load tissues differently, potentially reducing recovery time
- Specialization might offer some protective benefit
Practical Takeaways for Injury Prevention
For All Climbers:
- Know your vulnerability: Understand that your body type and climbing style affect your injury risk profile
- Progressive loading: Gradually increase training intensity to allow tissue adaptation
- Rest and recovery: Build adequate recovery time into your training schedule
For Female Climbers:
- Shoulder prehab: Incorporate rotator cuff strengthening and scapular stability exercises
- Dynamic movement training: Practice controlled dynamic moves to build shoulder resilience
- Technique focus: Continue leveraging technical climbing while building supporting strength
For Male Climbers:
- Finger strength training: Follow evidence-based finger training protocols with adequate rest
- Hangboard progression: Use a structured approach to hangboard training
- Warm-up emphasis: Ensure thorough finger warm-up before climbing
For Multi-Discipline Climbers:
- Periodization: Structure training to avoid overloading tissues with too many varied demands
- Active recovery: Use lighter sessions to maintain skill without excessive stress
- Listen to your body: Pay attention to early warning signs across different movement patterns
The Research Behind the Numbers
This study used a validated questionnaire (Oslo Sports Trauma Research Centre Overuse Injury Questionnaire) administered in 11 languages across 41 countries, making it one of the most comprehensive climbing injury studies to date.
Study Strengths:
- Large international sample size (1,513 climbers)
- Validated injury assessment tools
- Analysis of multiple variables (gender, training aim, discipline)
- Consideration of confounding factors
Limitations to Consider:
- Self-reported data may have recall bias
- Cross-sectional design limits causal conclusions
- Variable definitions of "injury" across respondents
Looking Forward: Implications for Training
This research opens important doors for personalized training approaches:
- Gender-specific training programs: Programs should account for different injury vulnerabilities
- Goal-appropriate periodization: Training plans should match the demands and risks of specific goals
- Discipline-specific considerations: Multi-discipline climbers need strategic load management
Conclusion
Understanding how gender and training aims influence injury patterns is a crucial step toward smarter, safer climbing. Whether you're projecting your hardest boulder or training for competition, this research provides valuable insights for staying healthy and climbing longer.
The key message? Know your body, train appropriately, and don't ignore the early signs of overuse. With this knowledge, you can make informed decisions about your training and reduce your risk of becoming part of the 50% who experience injuries each year.
Research Reference: Heiland EG, Ekblom Ö, Tarassova O, et al. "Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing." BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine 2024;10:e001972. doi:10.1136/bmjsem-2024-001972