Injuries in Female Elite Climbers: Groundbreaking Research Findings

Injuries in Female Elite Climbers: What the Research Shows

With climbing's Olympic debut, elite athletes are pushing harder than ever. But at what cost? A groundbreaking study of 114 female IFSC-registered climbers reveals important insights about injury patterns, eating disorders, and what we can do to protect athlete health.

Key Findings at a Glance

• 53.5% of elite female climbers reported at least one injury in the past 12 months
• Shoulders (37.7%) have overtaken fingers (34.4%) as the most common injury site
• Athletes with eating disorders had 2x higher odds of injury
• 100% of injured athletes sought medical care (unlike recreational climbers)

Study Population

The study surveyed 114 elite female climbers:

• Age: 22.9 plus/minus 5 years (range: 16-40)
• 30 countries represented
• Average BMI: 20.7 kg/m2 (healthy range)
• Training: 3.4 hours/day, 5.2 days/week
• Competition since: Age 12.9 on average

Injury Distribution

| Body Part | Percentage | Number | |-----------|------------|--------| | Shoulder | 37.7% | 23 | | Fingers | 34.4% | 21 | | Foot/Ankle | 32.8% | 20 | | Knee | 27.9% | 17 | | Elbow | 24.6% | 15 | | Lower Back | 23.0% | 14 |

Why More Shoulder Injuries?

This is the first climbing study to find more shoulder injuries than finger injuries. Possible explanations:

1. Route setting evolution - Modern competition routes feature more dynamic moves, jumps, and severe overhangs
2. Training changes - Higher intensity preparation for Olympic-format climbing
3. No-feet dynos - Increasingly common in competition, placing extreme loads on shoulders

The Eating Disorder Connection

A troubling finding: 32.4% of elite female climbers indicated they had at least one eating disorder.

Impact on Injury Risk

• Athletes with eating disorders had 2.1x higher odds of injury
• Energy deficiency during high training loads delays recovery

Weight Loss Behaviors

Previous research on this population found:

• 38% of female climbers reported intentional weight loss
• 46% of male climbers reported intentional weight loss
• 76% engaged in concerning weight loss practices

Implications for Prevention

For Athletes

1. Monitor training load increases - Gradual progressions reduce injury risk
2. Ensure adequate nutrition - Energy availability is crucial for tissue repair
3. Don't ignore warning signs - Early intervention prevents chronic issues
4. Include shoulder conditioning - Specific strengthening for modern climbing demands

For Coaches and Federations

1. Screen for eating disorders - Early identification and intervention
2. Monitor menstrual health - A marker for overall energy balance
3. Consider route setting impacts - Balance difficulty with injury risk
4. Provide accessible medical support - Regular check-ins with sports medicine

Looking Forward

This study highlights the need for:

• More research on female climbers specifically
• Injury prevention programs tailored to elite climbers
• Better health monitoring protocols
• Education for athletes, coaches, and trainers

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Based on: Gronhaug G, Joubert LM, Saeterbakken AH, Drum SN and Nelson MC (2023) Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers. Front. Sports Act. Living 5:1121831