Why Technique Matters for Beginner Climbers
When you're starting your climbing journey, it can be tempting to focus solely on getting stronger. While strength is important, developing solid technique is what will truly help you progress through the grades. This article breaks down how to build a foundation of climbing technique that will serve you for years to come.
Two Essential Approaches to Learning Technique
On-Site Climbing: The Problem-Solving Approach
On-site climbing means attempting a climb you've never tried before and trying to complete it on your first go. This approach exposes you to a variety of new moves and challenges you to solve problems on the spot. Here's why it's valuable for beginners:
- Each new move provides immediate feedback on your technique
- You develop intuitive problem-solving skills
- The variety of movements builds your technical repertoire
When you're starting out, try to on-site climbs that are well within your physical ability (V0-V2) so you can focus on movement quality rather than just hanging on.
Projecting: The Refinement Approach
Projecting (or redpointing) means working on a climb over multiple attempts until you can complete it. This approach helps you refine your movement in ways that on-siting can't:
- You can experiment with different ways to do the same move
- You learn to use minimal energy for each movement
- You develop deeper awareness of subtle body positioning
As a beginner, choose projects that feel challenging but not impossible—perhaps 1-2 grades above what you can on-site.
Volume and Variety: The Foundation of Technical Learning
To develop good technique, you need to:
- Climb a lot of moves - There are no shortcuts to technical mastery
- Climb on varied terrain - Different wall angles, hold types, and styles
Many beginner climbers improve rapidly simply by increasing their climbing volume. Try to climb 2-3 times per week if possible, focusing on quality movement rather than just getting to the top.
Technical Breadth vs. Depth
As you climb more, think about developing two aspects of your technique:
- Technical breadth: The variety of movements in your "toolkit" (different types of moves)
- Technical depth: How skillfully you can execute each type of movement
If you notice other climbers using moves you've never tried, you might need to work on breadth. If others do the same moves as you but make them look easier, focus on depth.
Learning From Success AND Failure
Both successfully completing a move and falling off provide valuable feedback:
- When you fail on a move, ask yourself: "What went wrong? What could I try differently?"
- When you succeed, ask: "Could I have done that more efficiently? Did I use more strength than necessary?"
Don't get discouraged by falling—it's actually one of the best teachers in climbing!
Learn From Other Climbers
One of the fastest ways to improve is to climb with people who are better than you:
- Watch how they position their body
- Ask how they approach specific problems
- Notice the sequence of movements they use
Don't be shy about asking for beta (advice on how to do a climb). Most climbers are happy to share their knowledge with beginners.
Developing the Observation Habit
Great climbers are constantly analyzing their movement. Try to:
- Pay attention to how each move feels
- After falling, think about what you'll try differently
- Before each attempt, have a specific focus ("I'll try keeping my arms straighter" or "I'll focus on precise foot placement")
This doesn't mean overthinking—just developing awareness of your movement patterns.
Creating a Technical Learning Environment
Set yourself up for success by:
- Climbing at different gyms when possible
- Trying styles that feel uncomfortable (if you like vertical walls, try overhangs)
- Setting small, specific technique goals for each session
- Celebrating improvement in movement quality, not just grades
Beginner-Friendly Action Steps
- In your next session, spend 30 minutes trying to on-site as many easy climbs as possible
- Choose one project slightly above your current level to work on over multiple sessions
- After each climb, take 30 seconds to reflect on what felt good and what could improve
- Find a slightly more experienced climber and ask if you can climb together sometime
- Try climbs in a style you normally avoid
Remember, technique development is a journey that continues throughout your climbing life. Be patient with yourself, stay curious, and enjoy the process of becoming a more skillful climber!