Starting Your Climbing Journey
Beginning your climbing adventure is an exciting time! The first year or two of climbing offers incredible opportunities for rapid improvement, but the choices you make now will shape your long-term development. This guide will help you focus on what truly matters as a new climber.
Focus on Climbing Skills First
Climbing is primarily a skill sport. Before worrying about training protocols or finger strength, concentrate on learning movement patterns and techniques.
Volume Is Your Friend
If you can only visit the climbing gym 2-3 times weekly, spend most of that time actually climbing! Build up a large volume of movement experience on the wall. When you get tired, move to easier terrain rather than stopping completely—there's still plenty to learn on simpler climbs if you stay mindful about your movement.
Explore All Climbing Styles
Don't limit yourself to one type of climbing. Try everything:
- Slabs (less-than-vertical walls that test your balance and footwork)
- Vertical walls (straight up and down)
- Overhangs (walls that lean out over you, requiring more upper body strength)
- Roofs (horizontal sections that you climb underneath)
Each style teaches different skills that will make you a more well-rounded climber.
The Social Benefit
Climbing with others accelerates your learning! Watch how more experienced climbers approach problems, especially those who excel at styles you find challenging. Don't be shy about asking questions—most climbers are happy to share tips.
No climbing partners? Start conversations at the gym by asking someone how they solved a particular problem. You might gain valuable insights or make new friends in the process!
Refine Your Movement
Don't just climb a route once and move on. Repeat climbs several times to refine your technique. The goal isn't just to complete a climb but to do it with increasing efficiency and better form.
For example, a drop knee (turning your knee inward to create body tension and reach farther) or a heel hook (using the heel of your shoe to pull yourself in) might help you complete a climb, but can you execute these techniques more smoothly on subsequent attempts?
Develop Good Habits Early
Essential Climbing Tactics
Some habits will serve you throughout your climbing life:
- Brushing holds: Remove excess chalk and skin oils from holds, especially on friction-dependent holds like pinches (gripped between thumb and fingers) and slopers (rounded holds with few features)
- Rest properly: Take slightly longer rests than you think you need between attempts on harder climbs
- Warm up thoroughly: Include lower body stretching and upper body activation before climbing
Learn to Read Routes
Climbing is a cognitive sport as much as a physical one. Route reading means analyzing a climb before attempting it. Improve this skill by:
- Attempting flash or onsight climbs (completing a route on your first try after studying it)
- Practicing second-go redpoints (learning from mistakes on your first try to succeed on your second attempt)
- Mimicking the movements on the ground before climbing
- Considering the route setter's intentions—holds are usually placed deliberately to suggest specific movements
Approach to Strength
Finger Strength for Beginners
In your first year, develop finger strength primarily through climbing itself. As you progress to harder climbs, your fingers naturally get stronger.
Practice different grip types on the wall:
- Open hand (fingers relatively straight)
- Half crimp (fingers bent at approximately 90 degrees)
- Full crimp (fingers bent with thumb over index finger)
Hangboard Training (Proceed with Caution)
A hangboard (a training tool with various grip positions) can be helpful for beginners, but approach it wisely:
- Keep it light—no heavy loads or maximum effort
- Focus on building connective tissue strength with longer, easier hangs (around 20 seconds)
- Remember that tendons and ligaments develop much slower than muscles
- Consider keeping one foot on the floor to reduce intensity
Basic Strength Training
Some supplementary strength work can prevent injuries and build your capacity for climbing:
- Pull-ups and push-ups: These basics cover most upper body muscles
- Simple core exercises like planks and hollow holds
Remember, the goal is to become a well-rounded athlete who can climb more without injuries—not to distract from your climbing practice.
Final Thoughts
Your first year of climbing should prioritize skill acquisition through varied climbing experiences. Add basic strength work to build resilience, but keep your focus on developing movement skills and climbing technique. Be patient, stay curious, and enjoy the process!